Soundwise.org - DigitalDiva Floor Stands

DigitalDiva Floor Stand v2.0

Here are the instructions on how to make your OWN floor stands as a substitute to the RB-1. Mine are based on the original Digital Diva Stands, I have just optimized them.

~27 items, costs ~$20.87. This includes all the PVC pipe and attachments (mine will be slightly different than Miss Digital Diva's) and some gun metal gray spray paint that is EXACTLY the same color and texture as the ProMedia speakers. Just FYI, the paint is called Rust-Oleum Premium Hammered 7218 Dark Bronze and costs $4.94, sticks to the PVC pipe very well.

Here are the items you will need:

20 feet of PVC Pipe, the thicker one for sturdier stands - $5.04

10 pack of T-Joints - $1.50

Rust-Oleum Premium Hammered 7218 Dark Bronze Spray Paint - $4.94

2 slip caps - $0.27 each

4 more T-Joints (you need 14, so the 10 pack and 4 more) - $0.18 each

8 90 degree Elbow Joints - $0.61 each

1 Bag of 1/4" x 1-1/2" round head Zinc Machine Screws (4 in a pack, includes 4 bolts) - $0.83

1 Bag 1/4" Media Split Zinc washers (25 in a pack) - $0.83

This is all you need, I think like 29 items and totals at $24.33, much cheaper than the RB-1's! LoL!

Also, misc things you will need, 1/4" drill bit and drill, a pipe saw or other type PVC pipe cutter, and PVC pipe glue (optional) which will make them that much sturdier.

It will take approx 3 light coats of paint to do the stands correctly. Allow 15-20 minutes between coats, do each coat equally thick, do short thin strokes with the spray paint to protect against runs. If you do not let it dry all the way before applying the second coat, or put a really thick first coat, you chance the paint peeling off, though you would have to use your finger nails to do this. Just try to do thin, equal coats and strokes.

W A R N I N G

1. You MUST, MUST, put a locking washer and bolt on the part that screws into the speaker, otherwise if you push down on the speaker, the screw will push the screw hole into the speaker! THIS IS BAD!!! Luckily I caught this and it is ok now.

2. If you do decide to glue the pieces together, use a heavy duty glue that requires no primer (PVC Pipe Glue) and use just barely enough that you can see it. The glue works like asphalt breaking down the plastic pipe and actually making the two pieces come together as one, using less is really more in this case, Put a large sum of glue inside of the larger end of the tubes like the T-Joints. Push the pipe going into that STRAIGHT in, do not twist and turn, push straight in. otherwise you will not get the pipes all the way in. put the pipes on a level surface after adding EACH piece. Push down so that you can make absolutely sure that they are all pointing EXACTLY the same, otherwise your pipes will not line up... You have just a few seconds to do this. Do the same when you put on the little elbow joints. This MIGHT be a little hard to understand...

on the T-Joint that connects the long pole... do not glue THAT T-Joint, but glue the pipe that goes FROM the sides to the T-Joints, but glue it to the outside T-Joint. This way you have a pretty stiff pole but it can still be moved, if you do not glue any part of that section of the base, you will have movement up to 15 degrees before you speaker is too heavy and it falls down... ouch!

Here are some pics of the steps and results.

If only I were good at autocad, I would have made a great schematic of the stands... oh well, here is the next best thing. Click to enlarge

I apologize for the picture quality and randomness of their placement. I will see if I can find the time to make some new stands and include some better pictures.





DigitalDiva Floor Stand v2.0 Here are the instructions on how to make your OWN floor stands as a substitute to the RB-1. Mine are based on the original Digital Diva Stands, I have just optimized them. ~27 items, costs ~$20.87. This includes all the PVC pipe and attachments (mine will be slightly different than Miss Digital Diva's) and some gun metal gray spray paint that is EXACTLY the same color and texture as the ProMedia speakers. Just FYI, the paint is called Rust-Oleum Premium Hammered 7218 Dark Bronze and costs $4.94, sticks to the PVC pipe very well. Here are the items you will need: 20 feet of PVC Pipe, the thicker one for sturdier stands - $5.04 10 pack of T-Joints - $1.50 Rust-Oleum Premium Hammered 7218 Dark Bronze Spray Paint - $4.94 2 slip caps - $0.27 each 4 more T-Joints (you need 14, so the 10 pack and 4 more) - $0.18 each 8 90 degree Elbow Joints - $0.61 each 1 Bag of 1/4" x 1-1/2" round head Zinc Machine Screws (4 in a pack, includes 4 bolts) - $0.83 1 Bag 1/4" Media Split Zinc washers (25 in a pack) - $0.83 This is all you need, I think like 29 items and totals at $24.33, much cheaper than the RB-1's! LoL! Also, misc things you will need, 1/4" drill bit and drill, a pipe saw or other type PVC pipe cutter, and PVC pipe glue (optional) which will make them that much sturdier. It will take approx 3 light coats of paint to do the stands correctly. Allow 15-20 minutes between coats, do each coat equally thick, do short thin strokes with the spray paint to protect against runs. If you do not let it dry all the way before applying the second coat, or put a really thick first coat, you chance the paint peeling off, though you would have to use your finger nails to do this. Just try to do thin, equal coats and strokes. W A R N I N G 1. You MUST, MUST, put a locking washer and bolt on the part that screws into the speaker, otherwise if you push down on the speaker, the screw will push the screw hole into the speaker! THIS IS BAD!!! Luckily I caught this and it is ok now. 2. If you do decide to glue the pieces together, use a heavy duty glue that requires no primer (PVC Pipe Glue) and use just barely enough that you can see it. The glue works like asphalt breaking down the plastic pipe and actually making the two pieces come together as one, using less is really more in this case, Put a large sum of glue inside of the larger end of the tubes like the T-Joints. Push the pipe going into that STRAIGHT in, do not twist and turn, push straight in. otherwise you will not get the pipes all the way in. put the pipes on a level surface after adding EACH piece. Push down so that you can make absolutely sure that they are all pointing EXACTLY the same, otherwise your pipes will not line up... You have just a few seconds to do this. Do the same when you put on the little elbow joints. This MIGHT be a little hard to understand... on the T-Joint that connects the long pole... do not glue THAT T-Joint, but glue the pipe that goes FROM the sides to the T-Joints, but glue it to the outside T-Joint. This way you have a pretty stiff pole but it can still be moved, if you do not glue any part of that section of the base, you will have movement up to 15 degrees before you speaker is too heavy and it falls down... ouch! Here are some pics of the steps and results. If only I were good at autocad, I would have made a great schematic of the stands... oh well, here is the next best thing. Click to enlarge I apologize for the picture quality and randomness of their placement. I will see if I can find the time to make some new stands and include some better pictures.	Try These Mods! DigitalDiva Floor Stands DigitalDiva Wall Mounts Heresy Speaker Stands LightZ Mr PC Pro Cable Mod